Why are Dark & Medullated Fibres a Concern for a Spinner?
The following is a summary of Südwolle's view of the risks presented by Dark & Medullated Fibres. Sudwolle GmbH & Co. KG is one the largest spinners of Australian wool in the world. The presentation was made by by Götz Giebel, to the Evian Congress of IWTO in 2004. It was in the form of a powerpoint presentation delivered by Götz so some editing of the text below has been made to clarify the intent.
Introduction
- Südwolle offers a stock service for yarns.
- 70% of the types are sold for apparel shades in the quality range „light shades.“
- This product group requires a low number of dark fibres.
- The basis to select suitable wool from is predominantly Australian Merino Wool
of which approx. every 10th bale is bought by Südwolle (based on 255 Mio. kg clean production).
Our clients need:
- Immaculate quality: fault free, unrepaired fabrics (from picking)
- Correct calculation of production costs
- Calculated factors stay within the plan.
- Predictable time factors: no delay due to extra work for cleaning
Improved detection of dark fibres is required
- curretn system is by random sampling, representing often large batches
- various standards do not produce „repeatable“ results and make comparisons difficult amongst laboratories.
- problems become most apparent in the woven fabric when checked for quality by piece, and this is too late.
Current solutions to the dark fibre problem
- remove contamination once detected in woven fabric through „picking“ the fibres out of the fabric
- prior to processing, no reliable commercially suitable method does exist yet
to notice dark fibres in greasy wool
- mostly financial settlements with clients are reached by negotiations for claims
- unfair practices in the industry exist
The evolution of the problem
- with a large wool clip over many years suitable quality was available
- economic situations and changed management strategies on farm have been introduced: Meat Sheep, Exotic Breeds, etc.
- no safe identification of dark fibres in the samples displayed for the auction is
possible
- a vendors declaration about the genetic background is not conditional for sale with other product descriptions
Consequences of the DMFR Scheme
- vendors declaration for the offered product
- price differenciation for „dark fibre free“ wool will send important signals
- developments in the fashion/wool industry depend on precise descriptions
- outcome of products planned and their calculation must be achievable
close to expectations
Conclusion
- compulsory vendors declaration is required
- the wool industry must be able to predict quality and costs from farm to fabric
- product development depends on predictable raw material
- product differentiation delivers „premiums“ for raw wool free of dark fibres
- growers deserve price protection for well-bred wools
- buyers deserve a correct description for what they pay for.